December 17, 2010,  Marsden Cove, New Zealand

S35 50, E174 28

We apologize.  Our last entry was in August when we were just arriving at Niue.  Holy smokes.  Where does the time go?  Well, I will tell you.  We are not cut out for keeping a rigid website.  We are awful at it, and may as well face the fact.  I believe I did say this before that it is more fun to do it than to write about it, but August and now it’s December???  Inexcusable.

I suppose that I should make a pathetic attempt at bringing you up to date, and then we can move on.  Let’s start with Niue.  This is a small Polynesian country located between the Cook Islands and Tonga.  It is it’s own country and not a colony to anyone, but it does receive much assistance from New Zealand, uses NZ money, and people of Niue are given New Zealand citizenship.  It is a geologically fascinating place in that it is essentially a coral rock on top of a volcano.  Due to the forces over time, its landscape has become full of caves with areas full of large plate like “forests of daggers”.  This, of course is simplified.  To really understand Niue’s geology, one must look further than here.

Just suffice it to say that hiking, cave exploring, and just walking the seashore in Niue are experiences unique to this tiny island.  Our photo section can testify to this. 

We spend about three week in Niue.  Many in the “cruising community” thought that this was excessive.  You see, Niue has no real protected harbor.  Rather it has a very exposed mooring field where the good people of the Niue Yacht Club have put moorings for traveling yachts to use.  Even with these excellent moorings, staying at Niue is an experience like no other.  To get ashore, one must take one’s dinghy to the large ship wharf where, if the dinghy were tied up for the day, it would be in shreds by the end of the day.  Thus, there is a crane set up, so one can hook the dinghy and lift it out of the water and store it on shore.  So what is the problem you say?  The excitement comes when the sea is running a swell.  The mooring holds, but the boat is rolling side to side, probably more than if you were at sea.  I likened our sleeping like being two cigars in an otherwise empty cigar box. While a giant rocks the box from side to side while the cigars (us trying to sleep) roll back and forth in our bed.  We solved this problem by lying on our stomach spread out like an eagle.

Then this swell at the wharf makes landing the dinghy quite exciting.  The water level rises and falls, up and down, as in surf.  One must get the dinghy to the wharf, unload passengers, attach the lift line and jump off onto the wharf before getting washed away by the next wave.  People do not get washed away, but they do get washed and banged around, us included. 

So, we not only put up with this treatment for three weeks, we saw it as part of the charm of Niue.  Not many others saw it this way.  Our photos are the best way to describe this amazing and special place.  We made friends there with the Commodore of the Niue Yacht Club, Keith and his wife Sue.  They are originally from New Zealand and have made Niue their home.  Keith personally greets each yacht by email, and then on the wharf to show how to use the crane, helps with transport to Customs, Immigration, etc.  He manages the moorings, and even took us for a driving tour of the island.  He is a real hero. 

So we had a lot of fun here.  We did a lot of hiking, rented bicycles, and explored caves.  One such cave, called Vaikona, was reported to be, shall we say, extreme and dangerous.  We had made friends with the crew of the boat “Visions of Johanna”, and together Elisabeth, myself, Gram, and Bill went off to explore this notorious cave.  The tourist literature, the posted signs and the local people all say that a guide is needed for this dangerous cave.  Well, we took off looking for the cave, which was a challenge in itself.  It would have been easy to get lost, and the warnings made sense.  However, we were lucky, we found it and decided to get a guide for further exploration.  It is funny.  Elisabeth made big points with Keith, as she was instrumental in finding the trail.  She found faded markers, scratches on trees and other trail signs that only an Apache scout might have found.  Certainly, the rest of us in the group missed them.  Keith nicknamed her:  Little Running Feather.

There is a little café on the beach in Niue called the Washaway Café.  It is a very cool place and the owner is a member of the family who owns the land containing Vaikona.  We had lunch and asked for a guide of the cave.  Our host laughed and said that if we found it, we had done the hardest part.  He said we wouldn’t need a guide, but he would draw us a map of the cave.  His map showed that the cave had a steep drop off, then three underground pools in three separate chambers.  Gram had climbing experience and would take a rope to help.  The rest of us would bring lights, and we would set out the next day to explore.

We made it to the cave again and crawled through the entrance.  It did drop down and there was a rope to assist the descent.  Gram tested the rope, it seemed good, and so we went down.  Then the rope ended and the descent continued.  It was very steep and required the rope that Gram had brought.  Gram made it down to the level bottom and rigged the rope to assist the rest of us.  Bill would be next to go.  He struggled.  It was very difficult for him.  This made Elisabeth nervous, and she indicated that she did not feel good about it.  This was seriously dangerous stuff.  A fall would easily mean a broken leg, but worse, there was no means for a rescue party to get to a victim in any kind of hurry.  Accordingly, I supported Elisabeth in not continuing, and I stayed with her at the second level.  Gram and Bill continued on, made it to the pools – all of them.  Upon their return, Gram expressed that it had been the most extreme thing he had ever done.  We all felt like we had experienced something very special there together.  This was Niue, and we enjoyed every minute we were there.

During our stay, the rescued crew of the capsized catamaran, Anna arrived on the island and shared the story of their ordeal and rescue.  We met many other intrepid people who braved it to be at Niue, including the family on the Danish boat “Exobyte”.  This family, father, mother and two boys were sailing on a very racy boat with no roller furling.  They raised and lowered the sails in the forestay foil.  This is common on San Francisco Bay race boats, but rather remarkable for a cruising family traveling the world.  The boys would fish and on occasion, offered beautiful chunks of fresh tuna to those who might like it.  They are special. 

After our three weeks, we were aware of how late in the summer it was getting.  We still needed to cover some ground if we were to get to New Zealand by hurricane season.  So, we prepared to say good bye.  The Yacht Club is co-located with an ice cream shop owned by a wonderful lady named Mamata.  She had also become a friend.  After we checked out of the country, we had one last lunchtime visit at Mamata’s.  We shared warm hugs and hopes that we might all see each other again.  Then, after the ice cream, it was time to go to Tonga.

August 15, 2010, Passage and Arrival at Niue

Alofi, Niue  S19 00.0, W169 55.0

We left Bora Bora intending to go to Rarotonga in the Cook Islands.  It had been rainy and cloudy in Bora Bora, and we thought it would be nicer weather somewhere else.   The forcast looked good, so we were off.  A few miles out we looked back at Bora, and there she was, all blanketed in clouds and drizzle.  Then looking ahead, we saw blue skies, and felt the warm sun again!  It was just about perfect.  The wind and sea were nice, wind about mid-teens and reasonable seas.  Perfect tradewind sailing

We had these conditions for the next two nights, and we were getting close to Rarotonga.  And then, (of course) one night, there appeared a squall up ahead.  The radar showed it to be pretty big, so it would be pointless to try and go around, so we just reduced sail, got our rain gear and proceded through it.  Now, a squall is normally, a short lived thing, and twenty or so minutes later we would have expected to be out.  Problem was, this squall did not end.  We had just sailed into different conditions altogether.  All of a sudden the wind was higher, the seas building a bit, sky was overcast, meaning a seriously dark night.  Most of all, the direction of the wind had changed.  Now Rarotonga had the wind (now in the twenties rather than teens) directly on our nose resulting in appearant wind of 30 knots or so.  This is very uncomfortable, we had over 150 miles left to go, so we gave it some thought, and decided that we would bypass Rarotonga and do directly to Niue, another 500 miles to the west.  It was a long way, but the wind was perfect for it, and we were concerned about the mooring arrangement at Raro anyway.  Interestingly, changing our course took us close enough to Aitutaki, another Cook Island we would liked to have stopped at, but the entrance to the harbor there is too shallow for our boat.  We just waved as we went by.

Now we were getting to see our little boat show her stuff.  She was built in Finland for use in the Baltic and North Sea.  She was in her element and just charged along like a race horse.  I became more and more impressed as we charged through the rough seas, driven by the strong wind.  We rode this wild horse very happily, and then the wind changed direction again.  Now the wind was still strong, the seas still big, but it was all directly behind us, a direction our boat does not respond well to.  So, we chose to tack downwind.  For non-sailors, this is zig-zagging, first with the wind on one side, then after half a day or so, change to the other direction.  It is not as fast as a direct course (with a good wind angle), but faster than dead downwind for us.

For about a day and a half, we did this.  Then (yes, you guessed it) the wind changed direction again.  This time is was perfect for a nice fast course direct to Niue.  It held up only for an afternoon, then all wind died.  Now we had the choice of bobbing along or starting the engine and motoring the rest of the way.  We had the fuel, but could we get fuel in Niue to replace it?  A quick email to Keith Vial, Commodore of the Niue Yacht Club confirmed that Niue had fuel, albeit expensive at $2.50/litre.

So, we ended this 1000 mile plus voyage by motoring into Alofi Harbor on Monday morning, July 26.  It was certainly twice the distance we had intended to cover when we left Bora Bora, but moorings were available, the weather was settled, and we could rest.  We were tired and quite happy to arrive.

We originally thought that we would have a nap and rest up a bit before checking-in to Niue.  But Niue being a very welcoming little Polynesian country advised us that we should come in and check in.  Ok.  Rest would wait.  Let’s go see Niue.  Now, Niue is somewhat famous among sailors because there really is no real natural harbor here.  The island is a geological wonder in that it was an atoll that was pushed up, out of the ocean by geological forces resulting in a topography unlike anything I have ever seen.  One can drop anchor in a few places where there is sand, but most likely, the anchor will be lost to the rough and jagged coral formations on the bottom.  To help visiting yachts, the Niue Yacht club has installed moorings to tie to.  Thank you NYC!!!

The harbor is hardly a harbor.  It is exposed to the south, the north, and the west.  Especially the west.  In any north or south swell, the anchorage is quite uncomfortable, and a dinghy tied to the wharf would be torn to shreds in very short order.  To deal with this, a crane has been installed to launch and recover all boats that operate out of the harbor.  Fishing boats, pleasure boats, yacht dinghys all must haul their boat out using this crane lifting the boat onto the wharf, put it on a dolly, which the owner pushes over to the designated parking area.  This machinery is operated by you, the boater.  We were met at the wharf by Keith, of the yacht club, who showed us how to operate our new machine.  Again, thank you Keith!

With Keith’s generous help, we were soon checked in, and introduced to the Yacht Club where we spent a bit of time visiting before we went back and took a nice long nap.  Already, we liked Niue.  It had a nice feel, and the crane business?  We soon grew to love it, being a part of Niue’s charm.

Arrival to the Marquesas – The Head Bash Injury

Four days out from Atuona, Hiva Oa, we were having a nice breakfast of pancakes.  The seas had been rough and choppy.  Not so very big, but enough to fling the boat around from side to side.  So here we were, happily enjoying our breakfast, Elisabeth sitting on the cabin floor, and I was standing in the galley, one hand hanging on, and one hand eating.    Elisabeth asked me to hand her some jam, so for just a brief moment, I let go of the boat and picked up the jam and spoon (two different hands).  At exactly that moment, a wave rolled the boat first left, then quickly right.  I was thrown off balance and then launched across the galley to the nav desk where the electrical switch panel was located.  I flew (with no free hands to break the energy) full force, head first into the switch panel.  The impact broke three switches and gashed my head in the three places of contact.  Great.  Blood.  Lots of it.  Pain.  Of course, but no loss of consciousness.  Elisabeth cleaned me up as best she could.  We had no ice, but we did have very cold compresses in the fridge.  The injury was such that it should have had stitches.  We did our best to keep it clean, applied antibiotic cream, and I rested a lot. 

We still had four days to go, and infection could be serious.  We used our satellite phone to call our friend Norman, a physician.  He discussed treatment with Elisabeth, and expressed that we ought to be ok, but to see a doctor immediately upon arrival.  I was able to stand my night watches, but I was definitely on light duty.

Our friends Allan and Alison on “Fly Aweigh” had Greg and Tiffany, known popularly as “Coast Guard Couple” on board.  Since they were a day or two ahead of us, we sent them an email explaining our dilemma, and asking if they might be able to offer a little assistance.  We were going to arrive on Friday, and if we didn’t get to the doctor, it would have to wait until Monday.  We were running out of time.  Now, Greg and Tiffany really are former Coast Guard officers, and as such, they thrive on helping others.  We had seen them in action before. Now, it was our turn, unfortunately.  It is just in them, bless their hearts.  So, this email set “Coast Guard Couple” into action of which we are very proud and thankful.

When we radioed in from the harbor entrance that we were near, they had done their homework.  Atuona  is a very crowded anchorage where everyone puts out a stern anchor  for collision avoidance.  It is that tight.  Allan had picked out a spot for us, and was in the dinghy to act as a tug, and to take our stern anchor and set it for us.  Bam, bam, bam, like clockwork.  Then, once we were anchored, I was whisked off Proximity, into the Fly Aweigh dinghy, and taken to the quay where Greg had a taxi waiting to take me to hospital.  They had also arranged to have a French-speaking friend with us to translate with the doctor.  All in all, they had me in and out of the doctor, and checked in to the country, and fed lunch by noon.  I call these people treasured friends.  But the really cool thing is that they would have done it for anyone.  It is what they do.

,

Lastly, the doctor gave Elisabeth high marks for her treatment.  There was only a tiny bit of infection, and I was given a prescription for treatment.  This doctor visit, by the way cost me nothing.  France has a socialized medicine programme that works.  No forms, no beaurocracy, just good medical care.  I had to pay for my medicine.  By the way, the locals do not.  Nice.

So, then, this was our arrival to the Marquesas.  A little less than elegant, but what a testament to fine people, our friends, and the country of French Polynesia.  Thank you Fly Aweigh, , Allan, Alison, Greg and Tiffany.

April 19, 2010,  S 09 48, W 139 01, Hiva Oa, Marquesas

We arrived Friday, April 19.  We had spent 24 days at sea.  All in all, we had had a very good crossing.  The weather had been kind, but still a bit, shall we say, playful?  Shortly before we left, our friend Bob Hanelt offered to provide weather routing for us.  This turned out to be not only very useful from a navigation point of view, but the communications between Proximity and Bob became a highlight of the trip. 

Some background….Bob is a friend who circumnavigated back in the early 1970’s.  This was pre-GPS.  Bob did it with a sextant, paper charts, and lots of skill.  More than a friend, he has always been a mentor for us, and we were honored to have him “along on the trip”.  Our communications took place by email, sent and received over the single sideband radio.  We would send a noon position, and Bob would respond with a forecast to match our actual and projected path.  We have saved these communications for posting here, for they will provide an insight into the actual mood and feel of the trip.

There were ups and downs.  In the beginning, we had difficulty finding a course that would put us where we wanted to be, and were seriously wondering if we had gotten it wrong.  Later on in the trip, the exchanges got humorous, and at times sentimental.  So here is our account of the voyage.  We hope you enjoy it as much as we did.

March 27,

Rod & Elisabeth,

The weather continues to look good.  You guys are doing great!  Don't

know how long you are going to hold the 240T but I advanced the ETAs at

240 & 6 knots.  It doesn't make too much difference for the forecasts

because the atmospheric pressure is so flat that the weather forecast

for each ETA is good for 100+ miles in any direction.

Best,

Bob

Question for you

Hi Bob,

Thanks for saying that we're doing great.  We are having a good time, it is beautiful, and we are happy, but the light wind is a challenge.  You mentioned how long we might keep the 240 heading.  A direct rhumb line would be about 220.  We cannot sail that because it would be DDW and very slow for us.  So tell me what you think of our "strategy".  We thought that we would sail the broad reach as clost to rhumb as possible.  This will leave us needing more "south", but we can make good time with it.  We will have to turn left to cross ITCZ, so unless the wind changes, we plan to make the left turn our departure from the 240 (today it is 250).  Hopefully, you can advise on when this would be optimal.  We gybed last night to see what we could get out of it, but while we got a lot of south, it also had us going east as well.  So we scratched that idea.  My concern is that with the 240, we will have to put in more miles, but with direct rhumb, it may take even longer.  Which would be best?

What would the Navigator Bob do with this hand?  Oh, by the way, the wind here has not been from the NE.  It is NW, or N.  If it goes NE, I think we could get closer to our desired course.  So we watch.

Our position today is: N16 38.5, W111 51.1.

See you Bob, and thanks

Your Proximity crew, Rod and Elisabeth

March 28

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

We are going up to Calistoga today so I don't have time to wait for

your Noon position.  I have based this forecast on a D.R. for you noon

position but, like I said yesterday, it doesn't make too much

difference for the forecast since the pressure gradient is so flat. 

The forecasts are relatively the same over wide distances within the NE

tradewinds belt where you are.

The weather looks good for the foreseeable future.

Best wishes to Proximity and her crew.

Love,

B&K

Response to Question

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

I understand and share your frustration.  The NE Trades are generally

light right now and are veering to the NE and then East in your

location.  For the time being I recommend that you steer 240 or higher

until the wind comes around to the NE and E and then gybe onto a port

tack to head south and west.  For the time being I suggest that boat

speed and comfort are more important than the rhumb line.  The winds

may change over the next few days and I will monitor them for you.

Hang in there.

Bob

Thanks Bob.  You're the greatest.  We did, in fact, get frustrated last night.  Right around dusk, the wind went light and the sea got lumpy.  You know, not enough wind to keep the sail full while the sea rolls you around.  Then it was Bang, pop, bang, pop, on the poor sails.  I couldn't stand the thought of breaking mainsail slides or worse, so I took us head up to where things were happy with the boat, and gave up some of our "south".  So. it's gotten better today.  We are back on a good course since this morning, got all of our south back, and the sails are happy. 

My quesadilla for breakfast was delicious, and my shipmate simply melts my heart.  Neither of us has ever seen such a blue in the water.  Amazing.  And of course, the boobies.  They are very curious and seem to want to land on our mast head, thus, we give a menacing sounding yell from time to time.

Our noon pos:  N16 13, W113 58.  It's so good to have you on board.

Love to you and Kristy,

Rod and Elisabeth

Rod & Elisabeth,

I studied the wind forecasts this morning and I am seeing a trend over

the five-day forecast.  Heading west is better than heading south.

 From 10S to the Equator and from 110W to 120W there is a large area of

calm with winds no greater than BF 1-3 from the east.  However, west of

120W the NE trades are blowing BF 4-5.

Also, there is a correlation between atmospheric pressure and wind

speed.  The wind is stronger if the pressure is 1012MB or greater. 

Although the pressure gradient is pretty flat, barometric pressure

drops towards the equator and increases to your west.

I deduce from this that you should work your way to the west to higher

barometric pressure and relatively stronger NE trades.

I know that it is of little comfort but when we did this crossing, and

were in your latitude, we motored for three days straight searching for

wind.  I was a more than a little frustrated, according to my log, but

the payoff came when we finally hit the SE trades and had great sailing.

Let me know what course and speed you are able to steer, when you send

your noon position, and I will advance a DR to give you a longer term

forecast.

Rgds,

Bob

Bob,

This all sounds great.  We are now doing 240 to 250, speed is plus minus 5.5 kts.  Out current pressure is 1014.

Sending now.

Best,

Rod

March 29

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

We understand completely about Proximity rolling downwind.  We had the

same issue with Skylark.  She was narrow with a heavy full keel and

that righting moment kept us rolling.  It's uncomfortable but

fortunately you get used to it.

Love,

Bob & Kristi

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

It sounds that you are positioned very well for the best trade winds. 

Even though you are North of the rhumbline, I suggest that you continue

making westerly courses because the NE trades continue to be lighter

south of 10N.  (The winds go to the east and drop to BF 1-3.)  The ICTF

seems to narrow, around 2-3 April, from 7N (NE winds at 1-3) to 3N (SE

winds 1-3) at 128W.  We'll watch this but it seems that, sometime

around 128W you'll want to bend your course to the south and cross the

doldrums. It looks like the NE trades are going to freshen toward the

end of this week.  That would be a good time to start favoring a

southerly course.

My shoulder.  I thought that I was making good progress but the P.T.

put me onto a new exercise and my shoulder hurts quite a bit.  Just

today I was able to restart my other PT exercises but cannot achieve

the levels of last week.  I'm not too happy about that.  Kristi and I

were down at the boat yesterday and ran the engine as well as topped up

the house batteries.  It was a nice day but the rains will be here this

week.  As a perspective, the temp will get down into the '50s!

Here is the forecast.

Love,

B&K

Hi Bob,

We just realized that we probably have been sounding like we're a bit disillusioned.  We apologize.  We do admit that we have been a bit frustrated, not truly understanding the conditions, not knowing whether or not we will arrive to our destination in less than two months, etc.  But now let's put that behind us.  This wing on wing thing has been teaching us today.  We put on some music from your passage movie, and then our "wallowing" suddenly turned into a beautiful sway to the rhythm of the islands.  Yeah!  That's more like it.  Whereas yesterday, we had arrival on our minds, today, we are "watching your movie", and we are in it.  I can't describe it fully, but it happened to both of us at the same time.  Suddenly, we are CRUISING.  Dream come true.  Special beyond belief.

You know, Elisabeth and I often talk of you and Kristi.  One of the things about you two that we love and relate to is that you both "get it" regarding life.  Not quite sure how to explain in plain English, but it's a very special trait.  By the way, we are sober 100%.  We are an alcohol-free boat when underway, so this is "uninspired by outside sources".  (Except maybe by island music.)

Love,

R&E

PS, A bigger part of you than you think is here with us!  Thanks!

March 30

HI guys,

Kristi and I are so pleased with the way that you have adapted to

blue-water cruising that it never even crossed our minds that you might

"disillusioned."  Indeed, we felt just the opposite.  You seem well in

control and in charge of your "universe."  Congratulations!

The trouble with being out in the big blue by oneself is the tendency

to over think things.  At sea, little issues seem bigger, noises sound

louder and one could (wrongly) worry too much.  That does not seem to

fit the profile of the Proximity crew.  We are very impressed with how

you are managing so well.  We attribute it to the fact that you are

well-prepared, sound-minded individuals who take nothing for granted

and who, because of that, spent the time, effort and money to be the

best prepared yacht on the ocean this year.  And, your training cruises

are paying off!

We are glad to be part of your success and do hope to share it

somewhere down the line.

BTW, Hainan Island is in South China, just across the Gulf of Tonkin

 from Hanoi and Halong Bay, Vietnam.  It is becoming a cruising area but

don't put it on your list just yet.  You are doing fine with the goals

that you have already set.

Last week, Kristian took a big step (for him) towards his romance by

telling the world via his Facebook profile that he is "in a

relationship."  Response from his Facebook friends?  "We've known that

for two years!"

Dark and stormy coming here.  Enjoy your sun and blue water--you are

right, the deep blue of the Pacific delights.

Love,

Bob & Kristi

Bob,

I'm having trouble with the Sailmail.  This is a test.  It has been getting intermittent, so your receipt of this is inconclusive.  If it persists, my friend Allan, on "Fly Aweigh" (he is an F-16 pilot, and his wife is a United 747 pilot) can act as a relay for us.  We are in contact by voice.  If Sailmail fails, we will also contact you by sat-phone. Trouble shooting now - wish us luck.  By the way.  It is incredibly beautiful here!

Best,

Rod

Hi Rod,

We received your sailmail no problem.  Also, I see your noon position

in my queue.  I will be back shortly with the forecast.  Great to hear

that it is beautiful there.

Bob

Rod,

Got it.

Bob

April 30

Hi Bob,

If I am successful.....N14 59, W117 53.  If not, Allan will forward.

Best Always,

Rod

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

It seems like you are having a great passage.  Fantastic!

As I said yesterday, the NE trades will begin to pick up to BF 5

towards the end of the week.  When the wind allows you to steer a

comfortable wing & wing course, you should think about steering a

little more to the South.  The NE trades are consistently BF 4 or

higher down to 10N.

Best,

Bob

NOON POSITION   3/30/10 1900Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    15.0N   117.9W

Hi Bob,

Funny about the wing on wing southerly course.  We are currently wing on wing and this is about all of the south we can get from it.  The winds are still quite fluky.  Today, they are about 10 to 12 kts avg. from NNE.  The swell is N, so we can't really get it behind us.  At night, the winds are dropping off, then coming back, on and off.  This plays havoc with our wing on wing, banging the sails around, such that I don't think we will keep it up again tonight.  We may even gybe and go S for the night.  We may have to give up a little W to do that though.  But yes, we are feeling the need to put more south into it.  Fly Aweigh is experiencing the same, but they did a south night the other day.  We seem to be parallelling course now.  Only real difference is that they are about 50 miles south and a few miles east of us.

What do you think?

By the way, I think I may have solved the sailmail problem. 

Hugs to you and Kristi,

Rod and Elisabeth

Hey Rod,

I understand that it is difficult to steer southerly courses in the

light NE trades.  Don't worry about it right now.  You have plenty of

time and, as you move west, the NE trades will strengthen to give

stronger apparent wind (from aft) that will allow you more options as

to courses to steer.  Right now, suggest that you steer for comfort and

not think about favoring s'ly courses for a couple of days.

On or about April 2nd when you are near 12.0N, 123.3W you will enjoy BF

5 winds and be able to adjust your course to, more or less, the rhumb

line for your destination.  For right now, adjust your course for

comfort to enjoy the trades and the sailing.

Yes, you have solved your sailmail problem.

Have you seen a green flash, sunrise or sunset, yet?  My record is

three in a row (a sunrise sandwiched between two sunsets).

Best,

Bob

Rod,

Are you having Sailmail trouble again?

Bob

March 31

Hi Bob,

Today's position is: N13 54, W119 20.  We gybed last night because 1) We wanted a little southing, and we were being pushed up to a north of west. and 2) it was more comfortable.  We have been able to maintain a little better (but not much) than south.  We will be gybing back to the west shortly.  In the meantime, the wind has come up nicely, about 15 to 17.  The swell is also up, so it's a little bouncy.  We may reef, but we like the speed, so we shall see.

It's also overcast.  All in all, your crew is in great spirits, and enjoying the ride.  More boobies for Eisabeth.  Last night, she had a boobie crash land in the cockpit after it brushed ,and was cut, by our wind generator blades.  She scooped overboard with the boat pole, and I cleaned the blood this morning.  Ah, we're cruising now, eh?

Best to you, and we will "talk" later.

No, we're fine.  That was from yesterday.

R.

Rod and Elisabeth

Hi Rod,

I just reread my email to you and was astounded to see "ICTF" when I

meant "ITCZ."  An ICTF is an Intermodal Container Transfer Facility,

something that I used to deal with a lot before I retired.  I am

regressing.  Next, I will be reciting to you my "ABC's."

Smooth sailing,

Bob

Rod,

Got your 3/31 noon pos.  Thanks.  It looks like you are doing the right

things as usual.  Looking at the forecasted winds, I see that, on 4/2,

the NE trades will dip below 10N, down to about 7N at 125W.  The ICTF

also seems to narrow there from 6N down to 2N and from 125W to 130W. 

You don't have to hurry to catch this dip but it should figure in your

strategy to gain Southing to head in the direction of 7N, 125W over the

next couple of days.

 From about 2N, 128W the SE trades are blowing ESE-E, BF 4 all of the

way to the Marquesas (8S, 140W).  Lovely tradewind sailing, if I

remember correctly.

Boobies!  Your wind generator saved Elisabeth from, maybe, a pooping in

the non-nautical sense of the word.  One landed on our mizzen one night

and unloaded on Robby.  He smelled like fish for the next two days...

Reefing is good.  Like they say, "when you are thinking about reefing,

it is already too late."

Best,

Bob

NOON POSITION   3/31/10 2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    13.9N   119.3W

Hi Bob,

Today, we are at N13 11, W121 08.  We are on a heading of mostly S.  It is rough today.  Wind piped up to every bit of BF 5 and well into BF6.  We are under two reefs in main, and one in genoa.  It's the seas that are uncomfortable, as they have gotten quite large and lumpy.  But we are fast!

Hope you are well, and look forward to hearing from you.

Love Always,

Rod and Elisabeth

Hi Bob,

Quick Question,  Our buddy has been advised by Commander's Weather to cross ITCZ by aiming at waypoint N12, W129.  This seems quite a bit different than our N7, W125, which is where we are aiming.  Any opinions?  We are just curious.

Thanks,

Rod and Elisabeth, your Rock and Roll Argonauts!

Hi Rock & Roll Argonauts,

I can see where it would be a little windy and uncomfortable where you

are at noon on 4/1/10.  It seems that the winds should start dying down

a bit over the next day or so but, of course, you want them at least

BF4.  You seem to be in overcast.  Is that correct?  Also, let me know

if your local time is ZD +8 (your noon is 2000Z [GMT]).

I saw your email about your friends receiving a recommendation to cross

the ITCZ at 12N, 129W.  I am inclined to agree with Commander's weather

regarding the longitude but I think that 12N is at least 180-200 miles

(3+ degrees latitude) too far north on or about 4/4/10 2000Z.  My

recommendation would be to stay north of 7N, to about 129W, and then

cross.  This would be on approximately 4/5/10 2000Z for you.  The ITCZ

would then be about 2-3 degrees of latitude wide at this point.   This

is according to the current forecast that I have, so things could

change, but I think that you are in a good position to ease into your

crossing.  (BTW, another issue that I have with your friends'

recommendation to go to such a high latitude as 12N, and as far west as

129W, is that the course to lay the Marquesas at 8S, 140W might be a

close reach in the SE trades, once the ITCZ is crossed, which could be

a slog.)  We will of course monitor this everyday.

Right now I recommend that you keep your SW'ly heading and adjust your

course for comfort as best you can.

You are doing great!

Best,

Bob & Kristi

NOON POSITION   4/1/10  2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    13.2N   121.1W

Our "local" time.  We are choosing our local noon as 2100Z.  Is our real local time here 2000Z?

Thanks ,

Rod

Hi Rod,

If you are using 2100Z (GMT) for your noon, than your local noon, given

your current longitude--see below, would be 1300, usually identified as

1300U.  ("U" meaning local time.)

Local time is calculated by dividing the meridians (longitudes) by

every 15 degrees.  For example, 120W longitude divided by 15 degrees is

8.  in West longitude, GMT is higher so, to calculate GMT, you would

add 8 hours to local time.  (Thus the Zone Description [ZD] is plus 8

[+8].)  Or, in reverse, you would subtract 8 hours from GMT to get

local time.  It is not so important with a GPS because you don't need

to take a "noon" sight every day at Local Apparent Noon, when the sun

is on your meridian and reaches its zenith from which you can calculate

latitude.  If one is on the central meridian (ie. the longitude divided

by 15 degrees comes out even) then LAN would happen nearly at 1200U. 

Typically one is in a specific numeric timezone from 7.5 degrees

Longitude before the Central Meridian to 7.5 degrees after it (to keep

the sun at a reasonable relationship to 1200U, which today is just a

matter of tidiness).

You are in a +8 time zone that goes from 112.5W to 127.5W.  At 127.5W

you should theoretically switch your ships' clocks to ZD +9, which

includes the Marquesas (127.5W to 142.5W with the Central Meridian at

135W).  In other words, GMT minus nine would equal local time.

Sorry.  I got carried away...

Rgds,

Bob

April 2

Hi Bob,

Today we are now at N11 31, W 121 29.  Last night is now in the books.  It was rough and uncomfortable, but our wind vane steered majestically while we sat cosy below, peeping out for traffic checks, etc.  It was not a bad night - but is was rough, and it certainly could have been in the event of equipment failure.

We are now back on our westerly course of 240, and are doing a nice turn of speed - about high 6's.  We are a little depressed about our lack of passage time.  It seems that we really ought to be much further down the road by now.  This is day 11.  Are we just being greedy?  It seems that at our current rate, we will take four weeks to get there.  Isn't 3 weeks the norm?  We do admit that our boat does not behave well downwind, so we always steer broad reach or higher.  Ah well, cruising is not a race, and we are really enjoying ourselves.  We're just a little embarrassed.

The weather here is overcast with a few breaks.  Seas are big, but not as big a yesterday, and seem to be much more better behaved.  We are moving faster.  Our local noon is GMT2000.  What else?  The wind vane steering is a revelation.  Last night, the seas would hit us hard, and the machine responded so quickly and decisively, we were both truly amazed.  All the while, we were watching from the dry of the companionway.

We figure we will just stay on this westerly course until you advise otherwise, rather than turn south every other day.  It feels good to have put some south there, but I doubt it's any quicker than just waiting until Longitude XXX, and making a turn.  Agree?

Yes, it's good to have you on board.  I'm really enjoying these emails.  Best to you, and I'll see if I can get the necessary propagation to get this off.

Love,

Rod and Elisabeth

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

Yes, I understand too well the wallowing-or rolling I call it.  You

might consider rolling out a little jib and strapping in the main a

little tighter to dampen the roll.

It think that your plan of steering toward 7N and 125W works for now. 

As you get closer we will have a more current forecast and you can

decide if you want to dip below 7N or carry on a little to the west of

125W.

Glad to be aboard if only by email...

Best,

Bob

Elisabeth says:  Goog Ol' Bob!  Gotta love him!  (and we do!!)

Yeah, it's gotten pretty uncomfortable, but if we wanted comfort, we would have bought a Lincoln Town Car and gone touring that way, eh?  It's the seas.  The wind is no problem, but with the seas, we really don't want to stress the boat (lots of creaking), so we have rolled in the genoa.  Now it's just the double reefed main.  It leaves a bit slow and wallowy, but instantly much less stress on the boat.  We figure we will carry this configuration and heading, until morning, then head back west with more sail.

I still like your idea of the SW work that we have been doing too.  We are still aiming at 7N, 124W unless you advise against it.  Your Close reach to Marquesas arguement is pretty convincing.

Bob, we have to say that this is just too wonderful having you to "talk to" on this trip.  We can't thank you enough.  We want to try somewhere in Tahiti though, ok?  We need to start planning.

Love,

Rod and Elisabeth

HI Rod & Elisabeth,

Just a head's up that I have some dental, etc. appointments today and

will a little late in responding to your noon position and with the

forecast.  Only about an hour or so, but I thought that I had better

let you know.

I hope that you had a good night sailing.

Hasta pronto,

Bob

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

You know, one of the great things about French Polynesia is that the

islands are so far away from civilization that it discourages all but

the most hardy of adventures to sail there.  But, once you get there,

everything is a daysail apart.  It's worth the effort; you'll see. 

Along the same lines, Nordhoff & Hall in writing about the "Mutiny on

the Bounty," wrote of a young, loyal midshipman who sailed the Bounty

lifeboat with Captain Bligh to Timor.  The young man was asking Captain

Bligh how much farther they had to go--which I don't even Capt. Bligh

knew at that point, and Capt. Bligh said, "think only of the miles we

have come, not of the miles we have to go."  So, I'm thinking that you

guys are doing pretty damn well even though you may not think so right

now.  Looking back on our Skylark trip, a 53-footer, it took us

approximately 22 days, 21 hours to sail the 2,984 miles (5.5 knot avg.)

 Hang in there, you are over 1/3 of the way there.

I see that you did get some south.  Right now I encourage you to steer

more westerly, which you are already doing.  You are starting to see

the NE trades lighten a bit and the swell become more orderly and less

confused.  This trend will continue as you steer SW'ly until the strong

NE trades diminish around 9N and 127W.  I would recommend that you

carry 9N to about 128W and then set your course for the Marquesas.  You

have not told me of your intended port of call there but, once you get

into the SE trades, Hiva Oa will be more to weather than Nuku Hiva. 

(Just something to consider but not worry about at this point.)

Great to hear that your self steering is doing so well.  Does it have a

name yet?

We are proud of you guys and, if wasn't raining like crazy, I would go

down to Gate 9 and tell everyone how well you are doing.  Maybe

tomorrow...

Love,

B&K

NOON POSITION   4/2/10  2000Z (ACT)

Thanks for the encouragement Bob!  It is nice to have right now.  You know, we really are proud of our accomplishment.  We belong to the Ocean Cruising Club.  It is a British organization, and their entry requirement is that you have made a 1000 mile passage.  Our Alaska Eagle trip qualified us for that, but just having completed a 1000 miles on our own is so much more satisfying.

Our first port is intended to be Hiva Oa, so is 128 a little far for that?  We wanted to drop down and arrive at the windward end of the chain to make the other islands accessable.

I think I just rained on Elisabeth's parade.  She was cooking (COOKING!!!???)  Boiling water for spagetti.  Wearing next to nothing while the boat is half on one ear, then the other.  It really is wild right now.  I told her...No!  Not without you wearing foulie pants to protect in case of a spill.  (Many scarred women from that kind of cruising accident, you know.)  So, she conceded.  Poor thing, she wanted to make something nice, but I told her a can is good for now.  We'll have that spagetti on a nice flatter day!

We love you both, and it's time for dinner.

Best,

Rod and Elisabeth

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

You are doing very well.  Sorry about the quartering swell and the

uncomfortableness.  You'll soon be past this.

I agree with Fly Aweigh's decision to turn south from their position. 

You too can start making southing so I think that you should start to

steer a more comfortable course.  A good strategy would be to keep

position 0N, 130W as a goal.  I plotted your DR positions (below) on a

course of 210T @ 5.5knots but fully understand that your course and

speed are dictated by your weather and your comfort and I will adjust

your DRs based on your actual Noon positions as we go.

Looking ahead, based on today's forecast, here is what you can expect

and my recommendations:

Today (SAT 4/3), lightening NE trades, but picking up a little tomorrow

(SUN 4/4) could be up to NE BF5 early but with winds lightening in the

PM

MON (4/5) you'll be running out of consistent NE trades into Easterly

winds.  Consider close reaching to south on port tack with a goal of

0N, 130W

TUES (4/6) continue reaching or close reaching to south

SE trades begin to become more consistent, but still light (BF1-3) at

2S, 132W on or about THURS (4/8)

Note that the SE trades currently show relatively light (ESE up to BF4)

to 10S, 140W so that you should not worry about being able to reach to

Hiva Oa.

Best,

Bob

April 3

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

Yes, protect those beautiful legs!  Don't worry about spoiling a

parade.  You are making good speed and coming up on the magic half-way

point.  Way to go.

I think that tomorrow may be your last day of real bumpy weather as

things will start to settle down (winds and waves) as you drop south of

10N.  Try not to steer too far to the east of 125W, however, as it

could get fluky.  You'll probably start to experience doldrums-like

weather once you go south of 7N but that is to be expected.  Once you

get through the doldrums, the SE trades look consistent and mellow--say

 from 2S and 128W to the Marquesas.  Once in the SE trades, you can boil

water for spaghetti!

Love,

B&K

Hi Bob,

Well, we did pretty well yesterday.  It seems that we covered 141 miles.  We are aiming for 9N, 125W if I understand correctly.  Currently we are at N10 47, W123 56.  Our course is 251 (determined by the NE component in the wind) speed is just under 6 kts SOG.  This course is really uncomfortable with the seas knocking us about from the quarter.  When the wind clocks, it suddenly gets much nicer.  We talked to Fly Aweigh this morning.  The have reached N9, W125, and have turned South.  They said mainly, they were tired of this uncomfortable course.  We are inclined to stick with it if it the best in the big picture.  Elisabeth too.  She is such a trooper.  Now she is talking about how we might do this passage better in the future.  I don't think she is actively planning it, but it shows that she is enjoying the "how to get passage right" challenge.

We are touched that if it were not for the rain, we would be your topic of conversation at the marina.  Thank you for being proud of us.

Ok, well it's lunch time.  Elisabeth sends her love.

From both of us,

Rod

Hi Bob,

Well, it's Easter.  And I found an egg!  It was fried and hidden in a tortilla at breakfast, mmmm good!  Today, we have turned south.  We turned at N10, W126.  Our noon position is N9 48, W126 05.  The wind is agreeing with our course nicely, so we are able to steer 180.  The seas are still very boisterous, and knocking us around like crazy, but we are happy.  We are moving well, and the sky is blue today.  After a few days of grey, the blue is such a welcome treat.  Our speed SOG is currently in the high 6's.  We prefer not to push the boat too hard, so we will keep an eye on it.  I believe that things are supposed to settle down a bit here soon.  If the wind goes down and the seas stay, it will be interesting to be sure.

Question.  Do we have any idea of the north and south limit of the ITCZ at this longitude?  Just curious about when to expect it, and when to expect that we are on the way out.

This turning south feels like a milestone.  We are both a little excited about it.  I got Elisabeth on video stating that passage making agrees with her.  Good girl.  We are both really loving the adventure of our "expedition".

We hope that you are having a good day.  Please give our regards to anyone who may be interested, and especially give our love to Kristi, Kristian, and of course, yourself.  It's really beautiful here today.  The water is such a vibrant blue with clean white caps.  The wind angle is 100 degrees to port, so it is just a little aft of the beam.  We're going places!

Rod

April 4

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

Happy Easter back! We are having a very rainy Easter, which is good

because our neighbors are having an Easter pool party--complete with

screaming little girls and barking dogs--but the rain is keeping them

indoors.

Turning south was a good thing.  In fact, looking at the weather

forecast, steering 180T is a prudent thing to do right now as the NE

trades blow, through East, to the Southeast as you head South on your

longitude for the next couple of days.

At your longitude of 126W, on or about mid-day 4/7/10, the ITCZ seems

to extend from 5N down to 1N with an E'ly component to the wind all the

way through it (BF 1-3) to 1N.  On 4/8, on or about mid-day at 0

(equator), 127W, the SE trades look to be blowing SE-E at BF4 and

continue at SE BF4-5 west of 130W.  All things being equal, this says

that you should hold your S'ly course nearly to the Equator or until

the SE trades pickup to the point where you want to bear off to the SW.

 So, over the next couple of days, south is good, west is not so great.

Keep up the good work!

Best,

Bob & Kristi

NOON POSITION   4/4/10  2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    9.8 126.1W

Pool party?  Is this the wolves family?  Ha!  Glad the little tykes are "contained".  You know, I'll always remember that time we were at Encinal YC, having dinner, when the kids were running screaming through the dining room and someone very dear to us yelled at them to, ahem...please be more quiet!  We had always felt that I was to blame for that because I had just told you that story.  It still brings a smile.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback on the south turn.  Onward we go. 

Hey you know how too much knowledge can be a bad thing?  Well, one hears creaking in his boat, yes?  And, of course, one likes to investigate.  So I investigated a little noise.  I found that the rudder post/shaft joint is weeping a little.  This has happened before, and KKMI was not too concerned about it.  They just re-packed it, and advised heavy grease if it happens again.  All well and good.  Now, our wind vane steering works on the principle that you trim the boat, lock the rudder, and the pendulum and aux. rudder do the driving, much like a trim tab on an airplane elevator.  Add in the big seas and lots of sideways sliding with a locked rudder.  Now, I ask myself....is that just a normal weeping, or is our rudder and shaft being seriously stressed to a bad point?  Hmmmmmm...... It'sall probably very normal to mentally tie one's self up in knots thinking of the worst possible scenarios while on passage, eh? ..and then the noise occurs at night...

Happy Easter again Bob.  We love you!

Hi Rod,

Yes it is the wolves family.  I told my brother about the wolf dogs and

he told me that he would just as soon have a pet that was not likely to

eat him.  I remember the night at EYC.  I believe that it was the last

dinner I ever had there...

I understand how easy it is to over think potential issues in the

middle of the ocean.  We had some slack somewhere in Skylark's

rudderpost and the bumps in the night were of concern but, of course,

not an issue once at anchor.  You are probably putting less stress on

the rudder, anyway, by not steering with it.  It's good to be aware of

it; not good to obsess over it.  As you head south, you should find

calmer seas in any case.

We are looking at possibly an inch of rain today.  That will take us

over 100 percent for the season.  And, the snowpack is already over 100

percent so it will be nice not to have to worry about drought this

year.  Of course, water managers concerned about job protection,

caution us not to be complacent.

Have a good night.

Love,

B&K

April 5

Blue Monday, but we don't have the blues.  We do however get a blue sky, and blue water. (for a while at least)  Last night, we got stars for a while.  We hadn't seen any in over a week, so the show was seriously enjoyed.  We are also used to the big lumpy, short interval swell.  It seems as though we've always had it.  Today we are still making good progress south, and the wind is NE at B4.  Our pos is:  N07 37, W126 17.  We're trying to keep it 100% south, but steering downwind with the vane, you know.  Our heading is 172 magnetic, so that is good.  We had a little rain this morning, and we both got naked and enjoyed the rinse.  Boat liked it too - lots of salt. 

We have both decided that we like passage making.  We liked it before when we did it on other boats, but you know, doing it on our own boat, by ourselves, is the truer test.  Ane we still like each other too!  Elisabeth is just such a positive force, I always feel extremely lucky to be in her presence.  And speaking of which, she said this morning that she feels like Ellen MacArthur with you on the team!  Pretty cool, eh? 

All right then, I'll go see if I can find a freq. with good propagation, and get this out to you.

Best always Bob,

Your friends, Rod and Elisabeth

HI Guys,

Happy to hear that you have the blues from the sea and sky.  There is

one website I can find, which has a satellite view of the Eastern

Pacific, that covers where you are right now.  I have been watching it

the past couple of days but this is the first time I have seen it with

such a wide area of cloud-free sky over you.  As of this morning

(04/05/1900Z) it shows clear sky from approximately 10N down to 2N and

 from 120W to 130W.  Of course it's very cloudy from 130W west and that

is probably ITCZ-related.

A southerly course continues to be the correct option for today and for

the next few days.  The wind continues to blow from the East, as you go

south, but with less of a NE component.  The day after tomorrow, when

you are down around 3N, 126.3W you'll likely find more variable winds

but still with an E'ly component.  When you get down to the Equator,

the wind will become more consistent from the ESE as you are entering

the SE trades.  Longer term, the SE trades still look pretty mellow (SE

BF4 west of 130W).  Depending on how well you are sailing at the time

you cross the equator, you may want to continue to gain some southing,

but maybe not directly south, in order to set yourselves up for the

broad reach to Hiva Oa.  We'll continue to watch that.

I remember those rain storms at sea.  Such a treat to get clean and the

salt off of the boat.

We continue to enjoy watching your progress and receiving your emails. 

Way to go!

Kristian went up to Fallon, NV to visit his friend, Nick the Navy pilot

who is teaching at Top Gun, but Kristian could not make it over the

summit on his way home yesterday afternoon due to the snow and

accidents.  He had to spend the night in Reno.  I think that people

will remember the "Easter Storm of 2010."  Think of what your are

missing.

Love,

B&K

NOON POSITION   4/5/10  2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    7.3N    126.3W

April 6

Hi Bob,

Boy are we tired.  Last night, the squalls started about N6 49 or so.  It was only a couple, but then about 0300, we hit them in earnest.  Endless squall until just about an hour ago.  So that was from N6 to about N5.  Line after line, totally embedded in grey overcast, constant rain, etc.  The good thing is that they did bring wind - lots of wind, so we made some distance.  We are now at N5 08, W125 58, and at noon, we were at N5 11, W125 58.  It was seriously scarey proceding into a solid wall of black squall clouds with lightening/thunder.  But, we did.  And we made it.  We are feeling like we really do live our lives rather than rely on some TV hero doing the adventure.  We are that adventurer.  And Elisabeth?  Amazing.  Totally cheerful, and into operating the boat , the wind vane, etc.  She likes this.  So now, it is time for me to have a rest (been at it since 0100,and it is now 15:19).  I gave Elisabeth her nap first.

It looks as if we are in the clear for the time being.  The wind is already SE, but is light.  By heading into it with about a 150 heading, we can move the boat.  It is not a direct south heading, but maybe better than bobbing slowly.  What do you think?  We want to get out of the ITCZ asap.

Best Always, and now I nap,

Rod and Elisabeth

Hi Real-life Adventurers,

Hopefully this will get to you before you, Rod, before hit the rack for

a well-earned nap.  (Isn't it amazing how fast you can go to sleep

these days?)

Yes, you are starting into the ITCZ.  Hopefully you can make it through

fairly quickly--although it shows to be several degrees of latitude

wide.  Steering to the east is fine, in fact it helps set up your slant

to Hiva Oa.  If you continue towards the south, it looks like you can

clear out of the ITCZ and cross the equator at the same time around 1N,

126W.  There, the SE trades begin to blow around SE BF4.  The SE trades

continue to look mellow, around SE BF4 all the way to the Marquesas but

you should remember to take your southing when you can get it so that

you line up on Hiva Oa on a broad reach.

Looking good.  Just a couple of more days max and you are into SE

trades.  Way to go!

Best,

Bob

Guys,

Haste makes waste as they say.  Here is the forecast.

I hate it when I do that.

Bob

NOON POSITION   4/6/10  2000Z (DR)

Lat/Long    5.2N    125.9W

April 7

Well, here we are where the wind don't blow.  So we go slow.  Early this morning about 0330 the wind finally turned off.  It is ever so slight, but only about 4 to 5 kts.  Since we want to get out of ITCZ asap, and since we brought jerry cans for the occasion, we are motoring, however, very very slow. We are only making about 2.8 kts at 0.5 gal/hr.  We have never been a good motor boat, and now is no exception.  But the pace is at least a pace, and the sails are saved from slatting.  For a while.  The fuel will only last so long, then we will sail what we have regardless.  It probably all sounds familiar.  And we still have a bit of distance to cover.  We have only passed Lat. 04N.  Can we make it to the wind?  We'll see. 

You know Bob, there is an official Pacific Puddlejump net on the SSB.  We don't really like these nets, so we are not really taking part.  It's all too organized for us, and makes us think that everyone is just a bit too nervous about doing this alone, so they have a support group, and they all can hold hands, etc.  Philosophy aside, we do listen once in a while because it's useful to know whether or not any traffic is close.  But the point is that we have gotten to listen on some young guys single handing (good on 'em) discussing their stay here in "no wind" land.  One guy was telling his buddy that he did too much motoring early on, and now he regrets it, he's eating TopRamen and the tuna is running low.  My heart just went out to him, so I called and told him that if we run into in Atuona, we have a can of some nice meat that we would share with him.  Poor guy - he's just bobbing along at about a knot and a half.  Hey, that's almost as fast as us!!  We arrived here having only consumed 8 gallons since we left, and we have a total of 80 on board.  Subtract out 5 in each tank as non-useable, that makes 70. Subtract out 10 gallons for getting into anchor, that leaves 60.  Subtract out the civil engineering fudge factor, that leaves 50.  I think we can make it.  We have 200 miles to Lat 01.  And we'll sail at the slightest provocation!

Hmmm..I guess I got carried away this time.

Our Noon position is: N03 51, W125 49.

Love,

Rod and Elisabeth

Your dreaming of being Rock and Roll Argonauts, ha!

PS, this whole trip is really just too incredible.  Here in the ITCZ, the cloud formations alone are spectacular.  We are really having a blast.  We are starting to plan our equator celebration.  Elisabeth is talking about making a very German thing.  We will have Toast Hawaii (it's totally German fantasy - the Hawaiians know nothing about it), and we will offer King Neptune a tot of JaegerMeister.  I don't think we have any funny costumes.  We're loving it all.

Hey Argonauts,

It was inevitable that you would coast into the doldrums, but it seems

like you are in the right place--given that they seem narrowest where

you are.  Like you are doing, you will want to continue to motorsail

south to cross them.  I think that 2.8 knots at .5 gph is pretty

respectable and it seems like you have planned your fuel perfectly. 

(Please try not to scratch the storage boards when retrieving or

storing jerry jugs.)  Also, another thing that I know that I don't need

to remind you about, make sure that you stop the engine at least once

per day to check the oil and other vital fluids.

You have plenty of fuel to cross the doldrums and, on arrival in Hiva

Oa, anchor at Atuana.

It looks like the day after tomorrow, 4/9, is the "breakout day" when

the SE trades fill in consistently.  The longer-term forecast is in

your favor with SE trades blowing from ESE to SE at BF4.  If you can

gain anything to the South, to set up your approach to Hiva Oa all the

better.

Glad you are enjoying the passage.

Love,

B&K

NOON POSITION   4/7/10  2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    3.4N    125.8W

April 8

Hi Bob,

Well, it's amazing.  We have covered 94 miles in the past 24 hours.  We must have a current running with us.  We were having to steer 165 to maintain 180, so we said why fight it, and are now steering 194 and tracking 193.  This has brought our SOG to 4.5 plus/minus.  I give Elisabeth credit for doing this while I was off watch.  Rightly so, she was rather proud when she showed it to me.

Our position is N2 17, W126 12.  How far south do you think we ought to go before we start heading rhumb line to Marquesas?  You had mentioned a few days ago that we would have a look at it.  I'm thinking maybe about N 01.  We ought to be out of ITCZ by then, eh?

Life here is good.  It has gotten quite warm, and wearing clothes is more a bother than wanted, but practical for deck work none the less.  Elisabeth sends her love, as do I.

Keep on the shoulder, man.  Very important.

Always,

Rod and Elisabeth

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

Nice work getting through the doldrums--what us oldtimers call the

ITCZ.  It looks like some time before tomorrow noon you can make your

play to the rhumb line.  The only proviso is that the wind is blowing a

steady SE BF4 all of the way to Hiva Oa so, the more you go to the west

now, the more you will have to reach--even close reach--to lay the east

end of Hiva Oa later.  Of course, that's a point of sail that Proximity

likes.  So, when you first get into the SE trades, you may want to

steer below rhumb line to pick up some valuable southing.

The shoulder is a bother.  I saw another PT today and I fear that the

first one may have sent me down a "primrose path."  It seems that I

nearly have to start over.  I am a bit discouraged.  Otherwise the sun

is out, Erin passed her Ph.D. orals and we are on the way to StFYC for

a meeting and dinner.

Keep up the good work.

Love,

B&K

NOON POSITION   4/8/10  2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    2.3N    126.2W

April 9

Hi Bob,

I just got this from Fly Aweigh.  Maybe I spoke too early about turning.  Better to stay southbound until after equator?  Also, currently heading 192 - 194.  Too much west?

Thanks,

Rod

Hi Guys,

I thought you would want to know that we still had another wet night with some good size squalls last night at a latitude of 20-40 minutes north.  Seems the ITCZ just doesn't want to let go of us. 

Also of more concern to me is the wind angle we are seeing.  Currently we are close hauled and barely making Hiva Oa.  The wind angle in the ITCZ (and thinking that we were through it at 2 degrees), resulted in an early turn and a lot more westing early on than originally planned.  I would hate to blow a couple of days having to tack eastbound, but we are very close to that situation.  I believe it already happened to Pincoya.  I know your boat loves this point of sail, so maybe its not a problem, but you might consider staying east until you get farther south to improve the approach to Hiva Oa.

We will be crossing the equator in the next hour.  I hear Neptune is pretty responsive to proper recognition so our ceremonial garb and sacrifices stand at the ready.

Hope the weather is treating you better.

Allan and Alison

Rod,

I saw Fly Aweigh's email, read your comments and was reminded that

overstanding a mark is fully allowed in cruising, in fact it is

encouraged.  You don't have to tack right on the lay line...

I suggest that you don't get as far west as Fly Aweigh until you are 4S

or 5S.  So, DO NOT give up going south in favor of going west.  You

don't want to have to beat to Hiva Oa.  You want the apparent wind at

about 100 degrees on your port side or farther aft.

Think about it: If you can get down to 4.5S, 129.8W, you could lay a

course of about 240T with the True wind at SE BF4.  You don't want to

join Fly Aweigh's problem.  If you can pick up the south direction, and

even some east direction, that you need RIGHT NOW to be at 4.5S, 129.8W

by 4/11, you should have a very nice ride into Hiva Oa from there. 

Don't look at it as wasting time because it is simply not.  It is the

prudent thing to do as, it seems, you have already figured out.

Pushing your way through the variable airs of the ITCZ is frustrating,

but not as frustrating as several days hard on the wind in

uncomfortable seas.  You want to make sure that, when you come out of

the ITCZ, you are in best possible position to reach all of the rest of

the way to Hiva Oa.  Even after you are on the rhumbline, say at 240T,

you should still cheat to the south whenever you have the chance.

I am looking forward to your noon report tomorrow.  Have a good sail

tonight.

Rgds,

Bob

Hey Bob,

My PT was a guy named Mel Young, and was stellar.  I have his email on gmail, but not with me now.  I'm sure you could Google him.  His office is downtown SF.

Good luck.  My thoughts are with you.  In the mean time, we stay SB.

Rod

Hi Bob,

I got Fly Aweigh's position tonight.  They are at S00 07, W129 27.  Compared to the DR plots you have given for our forecast, they are way north.  But looking at the chart, and laying out a SE wind vector, it sure looks as though they would be set up for a beam reach to Marquesas.  Obviously, this is not the case, as they are close hauled and contemplating a turn to the east to gain some ground.  Now then, plotting out the DRs you provided for our forecast, they make a nice line toward destination.  Do you see these points hen Bob as a pretty good place to start when looking for a course line to destination?  They look good to me.  They are further south, go west later.  Is it enough?  My guess is that will be determined by what we find out here.  But I have to say, having heard about two boats getting it wrong, we are studying to get it right.  We will stay south and not be seduced by the temptation to go west.  It is very seductive, isn't it?  The wind suddenly seems to be nice for it.  But then, I am curious about Fly Aweigh.  Did they not set a rhumb line and then try and steer it?  I think it would have shown up if they had tried it. Pilots - airline and F16.

Ah well, can you tell it is night watch, rainy, dark with radar as they only eyes?  We're not out of the ITCZ (doldrums for old school ) yet.  Tonight, we had ten knots of wind from the WEST, then it (veered?) to the south, and is now currently on the nose, although much less velocity.  Interesting place, here.  Pos.N01 45, W126 21.

Good night Bob, and think about giving Mel a call about that shoulder.  I feel a little responsible for you having "sold" the success of my procedure.

Rod

April 9

Hey Bob,

Good advice all.  Thank you so much for it.  After giving it some thought, and plotting a few points, it seems that your strategy of getting south enough for a 240 course is spot on.  So, if we can find the wind to simply continue on south after the equator, why not?  Laying a point at about S03 07, W 126 34, would allow us to simply make the turn there with a 240 course to destination.  Now the wind may dictate otherwise, but we see what you are getting at (the point S4.5, 129.8 lies along the course line drawn from the one at s03 07.

Right now we are still motoring.  There is simply no wind suitable for sailing, and the little zephers that are here, vary from south to north to west, etc.  We're looking for that SE to fill in, even if it is light.  We are almost at the end of our motoring range, though, and at a certain fuel burn, we will shut it off and do our best.  We are still in ITCZ conditions, but I hope that we must be getting close to the end of it.

Now.  Equator party.  It appears that we will cross tonight about midnight.  Too bad.  We wanted to call you from Lat. Zero.  Regardless, we would like to call you tomorrow after we have transgressed into the southern hemisphere.  Do you think you will be available for a short talk?  If not then, just let us know when would be good.  We want to say thank you and celebrate this accomplishment with you.

About these emails.  i have come to really enjoy them and spend the time with you.  However, I realize that maybe they are different for you than us.  So, if you find that they are getting a little tedious or too long, just say the word, and we can shorten them right up.  Also, I hope I didn't mis-represent our feelings on the nets the other day.  We think they are fine , and we fault no one who participates in them.  It is just for us, they get in the way of the magic that is to be out here, alone with the ocean.  Kind of an intrusion.  Yes, I know, I need to explain the emails now, and I really don't have an answer other than the emails aren't chattering along.

Ah well, our position is N00 47, W126 41, we are heading 172 mag.  Wind is 3 kts from ???  Still lots of ITCZ sky around.  It's nice and warm and we had our cockpit, bucket baths this morning.  They're pretty wonderful.

Please give a hug to Kristi, and we will talk soon.

Rod

Rod,

You've got it.  If you can continue south you'll be doing yourselves a

favor.  Where you are suggesting that you turn onto the rhumb line, on

4/11, currently shows ESE BF1-3, which should help you work your way

south.  Depending on wind and sea conditions if you can point into the

wind a little bit (port tack) to get down to your turning point (03

07S, 126 34W) you will be in good shape.  But don't beat yourself up.

I notice that, and this may be why Fly Aweigh is having to beat to

weather right now, there is an area bounded by 0, 3.5S and 130W and

133W with SE trades that are SSE-SE at BF4.  This area lasts for a

couple of days.  According to your above strategy, you will be south of

this area and it should gone by the time you reach 130W.  After 5.5S

and 130W, the SE trades are ESE (BF4) tending to E (BF1-3) as you close

with Hiva Oa, which should help your slant.  (Assuming that the winds

don't change and they have been but only a little.)

Congratulations on reaching the equator.  If you would like to have a

short chat, I suggest that you call after you send your Noon position

tomorrow because we will be here (510.339.2609).  Kristian is coming

over to help me with a couple of projects around 1300 our time, noon

your time.  Also of note, during tomorrow afternoon sometime, you will

cross Skylark's track at approximately 1.7S, 126.3W (5/10/72).  It was

our 17th day from Acapulco, we were steering 244T to Nuku HIva at

6.7kts in SE BF4 and I reported, "fine tradewind weather."  I wish that

Proximity enjoys the same.

What about those emails?  I enjoy them too and, to tell you the truth,

working on the forecasts gives me something to do that doesn't require

too much right shoulder exertion.  So, I am pleased to continue our

communications and I am happy to be of service.  I understand the

reluctance to want to engage in a net where it would take all morning

to report your 0800 positions but, on the other hand, it is nice to

have company.  Remember, we did not talk to another vessel for more

than three weeks!  Once we met up with other cruisers we enjoyed

comparing notes ("misery loves company.")  But we never traveled with

more than four other boats, ever...

Happy sailing.  We are looking forward to talking to you.

Love,

Bob & Kristi

NOON POSITION   4/9/10  2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    0.8N    126.7W

April 10

Hey!

We're at S00 53, W127 05.  At about 0700 this morning, the wind from the SSE filled in.  It is blowing a steady BF4.  We tried to keep our direct south heading, but the sea is right on the nose, and very lumpy.  We were burying the bow every 4th or 5th wave.  Not at all comfortable.  We have set a course for your point that you mentioned at 4.5S, 129.8W.  Our COG is 216M which is the bearing to that point.  It is the rhumb line intercept point that you had mentioned the other day when we were talking about Fy Aweigh.  It turns out that this course is quite fast.  Even though we are reefed, our SOG is around 7.5 to 8.0.  Must be the current.  Anyway, we will stay this course unless you advise otherwise.  It is comfortable (to a degree - Elisabeth still cannot boil her spagetti), and we do not bury the bow so often, but it is still pretty boisterous..  Now, I will send this and give you a call.

Your Shellbacks,

Rod and Elisabeth

PS, the Skylark position is coming up!

Hi Shellbacks,

Good to hear from you today.  Thanks!  It sounds like you are in great

spirits, which is great, and Proximity is doing fine.  All good.

I think that you made the right decision to turn to the SW with the SE

trades that have filled in.  You are on your way to paradise.

Like I said on the phone it looks like, particularly to the west of 130

W, the easterly component of the SE trades is prevalent so, even if you

have to steer slightly higher of your course today and tomorrow, you

should be able to pick up what you give up as you close with Hiva Oa. 

The forecast looks very favorable.  Yes, you are getting helped by the

south equatorial current.  You should have this all of the way as it

normally extends down to 10S.

Thanks again for calling.

Here is the forecast.

Love,

B&K

NOON POSITION   4/10/10 2000Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    0.9S    127.1

Hmmm....Bob. are you saying that we don't need to worry about getting our southing?  That is what Fly Aweigh is saying too, although, they are now reporting that they are happy with a beam reach to Hiva Oa.  I think maybe they are just putting on the positive face.  Beam reach is ok, but I think we will be much more comfortable with the wind about 100 degrees as you originally suggested.  Don't you?  So therefore....last night to make the night watch comfortable, we put the wind slightly aft of the beam.  This gave us a COG of about 240.  Too high to reach Hiva Oa, but comfortable for the night.  Today, we have hardened back up to get some more south, about COG 208, which puts us on track for your point.  Now if the wind backs further to the east, this all changes.  But we already have a pretty good SE.

Yes, it was really good to talk to you, and to Kristi.  Hope you gave Kristian our love as well.  Now, I must go relieve the watch.

Best,

Rod

PS, We have switched time zones.  We are now GMT +9.  Noon position: S02 50,  W129 07.  Oh hey, we were talking about the nets, their virtues and vices.  You had mentined that at most you were in company with four other boats.  So, it is quite understandable that to meet another boat out in the world was very, very special.  In contrast, last might over twenty boats checked in to the "Puddle Jump" net.  Different world, I suppose.  Thank you GPS.  But anyway, isn't just a bit like going hiking in the wilderness and meeting a fellow trekker.  Pretty special.  Now, it seems akin to hiking in the wilderness, with bus loads of guided tours trampling through.  One starts looking for that tree to hide behind.  For example, there about four boats I am now tracking just for collision aviodance - and we're still 700 miles out.  Ah, but if this all we ever have to "complain" about, I would say that life is pretty doggone good!

April 11

Rod & Elisabeth,

In so many words, don't give up on southing just yet.  If you could

make good 220T for the next 1.5 to 2 days, or steer deeper to get onto

240T sooner, that is the best strategy.  I notice that the winds are

forecast to be BF4 the rest of the way.  Even yesterday, the forecast

was for SE trades to drop to BF1-3 as you closed with Hiva Oa.  

Today's forecast, however, shows that the wind will not drop but, will

stay at ESE-E BF4, which would be great to set up your broad reach.  So

keep doing what you are doing--steer for comfort at night and for south

during the day until you can go onto 240T to lay Hiva Oa.

Now, you show-offs, I see that you are averaging about 7 knots (but I

also realize you through in an extra hour of sailing when you set your

clocks back just to confuse me).  Nonetheless that is good speed as

long as the ride is comfortable.  I have advanced your DR at 6.5kts for

forecasting purposes.  You guys are looking pretty good, I must say.

One thing that is fun about arriving at the Marquesas is that you meet

boats and make friends with those who are coming from Panama, the

Galapagos and other jump off points from the Americas.  Many of them

will be European so you community will grow in terms of diversity and

culture.  I guess there is a benefit to having the broad radio net in

that it eliminates awkward meetings--you may not know what the people

look like--or even their boats--but you have made their acquaintances

by radio.  Your group will coalesce quickly around Hinano beers once

you put faces with voices...

Here is the forecast.

Love,

B&K

NOON POSITION   4/11/10 2100Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    2.8S    129.1W (ZD+9)

April 12

Dear Bob,

Well, we would love to see those ESE, E winds.  We think the forecasts are wrong.  We have the wind with a serious S component all day at BF 4-5.  Right now, we are struggling to maintain 210 with seas pounding, bow burying, etc.  We could fall off to 220, but it is not much of a fall off.  We don't have the east in the wind.  We are perplexed, but will do our best.

In the mean time, yesterday, Allan sent a cheery email saying that he had east winds and could lay Hiva Oa, no problem, and that he could steer 180 if he wanted.  He said he was at S2 30.  So we are now well south of that, but not so far west as him.  Could it be the westing that makes the difference?  Should we bear off to westward?  We just don't know.

Wanting a couple of cool Hinanos,

Rod and Elisabeth

Rod,

I understand your frustration.  I looked back at an email that I sent

you on 4/10, when Fly Aweigh evidenced difficulty at your current

longitude.

"...this may be why Fly Aweigh is having to beat to weather right now,

there is an area bounded by 0, 3.5S and 130W and 133W with SE trades

that are SSE-SE at BF4. This area lasts for a couple of days. According

to your above strategy, you will be south of this area and it should

gone by the time you reach 130W. After 5.5S and 130W, the SE trades are

ESE (BF4) tending to E (BF1-3) as you close with Hiva Oa, which should

help your slant. (Assuming that the winds don't change and they have

been but only a little.)"

You are currently in the roughest part of the forecast, although the

wind arrows don't show that much south in the winds.  You should steer

west for comfort and worry about making south once you are clear of

this rough patch.  The more critical component of Allan's position is

not his latitude (2.5S) but his longitude (?).  My guess is that Fly

Aweigh is just far enough to the west of you that they can take

advantage of the easterly component of the SE trades.  Head west, slow

the boat down and wait for the winds to abate.  Don't push it.  In a

couple of degrees of longitude the wind should back to the east.

Don't worry.  It will get better.

Bob

Ha!  Now here is some showing off.  We had over a 175 mile day yesterday!  (It's the current.)  Anyway, it sure is great.  Still not so sure about that wind, but is does seem to be getting better - at least good enough that we can make Hiva Oa without slogging.  I'll take it.  Our noon position:  S04 21, W131 26.  We are heading 207 with COG of 220.  Notice that we STILL haven't made the latitude in your turn point?  And we struggled so hard all day yesterday, and then again this morning to get there.  We are seriously west, though, so I think the current, although helpful, is also a bit of a rascal.  We're just taking it easy now.  We will get there.  It's really looking possible for a Friday arrival.  We simply cannot believe it after so long.  This passage has become a way of life, and we are both pretty comfortable with it.  Land, hmmmm.... something to get used to.  But wait!  There is Hinano beer there - not to worry.  We will adjust!

Best to you Bob, and we will talk later.

Rod and Elisabeth

Hi Rod & Elisabeth,

You should be nearly through the rough patch and the wind should be

veering.  From here on the weather does not appreciable change except

that you will find more easterly in the wind, particularly after 135W

where the winds show mostly from the east all the way to Hiva Oa.  The

satellite photo shows really clear skies so, hopefully, you have only

puffy tradewind clouds and are finally enjoying the trades.

It looks like, from where you are, you could line up on 230T and not

have to change course for the rest of your trip.  The current is

helping and, once you are east of 135W, you will not find it a problem

to maintain 230T.  Everything lines up for Hinanos at Atuana on Friday!

 (And, fresh bread!)

Let me know when you have the spaghetti.

Good job guys.  Here is the forecast.  Believe it!

Bob

NOON POSITION   4/12/10 2100Z (ACT)

Lat/Long    4.4S    131.4W

April 13

Hey Rod,

Hinanos with our Rock & Roll Argonauts in Atuana would be great but a

cold beer anywhere else would suffice.  We are just happy that you guys

are doing so well.  I wasn't sure that, this far East, you could lay

Hiva Oa at 230T, with the apparent wind abaft abeam, but it looks like

you are getting close.  The wind will come aft (true wind will become

more easterly) as you gain longitude so you don't need to push to make

course 230T right now.  Just sail for comfort and ease off as apparent

wind allows when you close on Hiva Oa.